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When it comes to climbing, whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned pro, one piece of gear is absolutely essential: the harness. It’s the piece of equipment that keeps you safe, connects you to the rope, and provides comfort as you scale rock faces or hang in the gym. But with so many options on the market, how do you choose the right one? Let’s break down the key things to consider when picking out your climbing harness.
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Why The Right Harness Matters
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Your climbing harness is more than just a safety tool—it’s your partner in every climb. A well-fitting harness gives you confidence, allowing you to focus on your next move instead of worrying about comfort or security. The right harness balances support, weight, and features, all while fitting like a glove. So, what should you look for?
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Key Features of a Climbing Harness
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Fit and Comfort:
- This is the most crucial factor. A harness should fit snugly around your waist and thighs, but not so tight that it restricts movement or causes discomfort. Look for adjustable leg loops and waist belts to fine-tune your fit. The padding should provide comfort during long belays or hanging rests, but it shouldn’t be so bulky that it feels cumbersome.
Weight:
- Depending on the type of climbing you do, weight might be a big consideration. For sport climbing, a lighter harness can make a difference, reducing fatigue on long routes. However, for trad climbing or multi-pitch routes, you might prefer a harness with more padding and features, even if it’s slightly heavier.
Gear Loops:
- Consider the number and placement of gear loops. Sport climbers might need fewer loops, while trad climbers require more space to rack cams, nuts, and quickdraws. Some harnesses also have ice clipper slots for carrying ice screws during alpine or ice climbing.
Safety Features:
- Look for reinforced tie-in points, which are often the first areas to wear out. Double-check that the harness meets the UIAA and CE safety standards, which ensure it’s been tested for durability and strength.
Buckles:
- Most modern harnesses come with auto-locking buckles, which are convenient and safe. However, if you’re using an older harness with manual buckles, make sure you double back the strap to secure it properly.
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Types of Climbing Harnesses
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Sport Climbing Harnesses:
What are they:
- These are typically lightweight, with minimal padding and fewer gear loops. They’re designed for short climbs where you’re not carrying a lot of gear. The focus is on freedom of movement and comfort during dynamic routes.
Recommendation – NewDoar UIAA & CE Certified Climbing Harness
- The NewDoar UIAA & CE Certified Climbing Harness is an excellent choice for sports climbing due to its robust safety features and ergonomic design. The harness is versatile, fitting a wide range of body sizes, and offers easy adjustability. Its padded waist belt and leg loops, reinforced with breathable mesh, provide superior comfort during extended climbs. Additionally, the harness’s thoughtful design, including tool rings for carrying gear, makes it practical for various climbing scenarios, from mountaineering to indoor climbing.
Trad Climbing Harnesses
What are they?
- Trad harnesses offer more padding and additional gear loops. They’re built for long days on the wall, carrying lots of equipment. The extra comfort is worth the trade-off in weight.
Recommendation – SOB Climbing Harness
- The SOB Climbing Harness is a highly recommended choice for anyone seeking a reliable and versatile safety harness for various outdoor activities. CE-certified and designed with comfort and protection in mind, this harness features a reinforced belay loop and breathable mesh lining, ensuring even pressure distribution and comfort during climbs. Its high-strength polyester webbing and reinforced stitching provide exceptional durability, with a maximum breaking strength of 22KN. The adjustable design accommodates a wide range of waist and leg sizes, making it suitable for different body types. Lightweight and equipped with tool rings, this harness is ideal for rock climbing, tree climbing, fire rescue, and more, offering both safety and convenience.
Big Wall Harnesses
What are they?
- These harnesses are built for the ultimate in comfort during extended hangs, such as in aid climbing. They have wide, cushioned waist belts and leg loops, along with multiple gear loops and haul loops.
Recommendation – SOB Climbing Full Harness
- The SOB Full Body Safety Harness is an excellent choice for those seeking a secure and comfortable harness for indoor climbing and other high-altitude activities. Crafted from high-quality polyester, this harness offers a robust yet comfortable experience, featuring breathable mesh on the waist belt and leg loops to ensure comfort during extended climbs. Its fully adjustable design allows for a customized fit, enhancing both safety and practicality. With a CE EN358 EN813 certification and a maximum breaking strength of 22KN, it provides reliable protection. Lightweight and portable, it also includes convenient tool rings for carrying essential gear, making it ideal for a wide range of activities, including rock climbing, fire rescue, and construction work.
Gym Harnesses
What are they:
- If you’re mostly climbing indoors, a simple, budget-friendly harness might be all you need. These are typically less expensive and have fewer features, but they’re perfectly adequate for gym use.
Recommendation – PETZL Unisex Corax Harness
- The PETZL Corax Harness is a budget-friendly option that doesn’t compromise on comfort or versatility, making it an ideal choice for both gym and outdoor climbing. Designed with a wide waistbelt and padded leg loops, it provides excellent support, ensuring you can climb in comfort for extended periods. The harness is fully adjustable, with Doubleback buckles on the waistbelt and adjustable leg loops, allowing it to fit a wide range of body types and clothing layers. It also offers practical features like rigid front gear loops for easy access to quickdraws and flexible rear loops for additional gear. Made with eco-friendly materials, the Corax Harness combines durability, comfort, and functionality at an affordable price, making it perfect for climbers of all levels.
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How to Choose the Right Harness for You
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Start by thinking about the type of climbing you do most frequently. If you’re a gym climber or stick to sport routes, a lightweight harness with fewer gear loops will serve you well. However, if you’re venturing into trad, alpine, or big wall climbing, investing in a more feature-rich harness with extra comfort will be beneficial.
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When you try on harnesses, wear the same clothing you would when climbing. Make sure to hang in the harness if possible (many climbing shops have a hanging station for this purpose) to check how it feels under load. Adjust the fit, test the buckles, and see how easy it is to access the gear loops.
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Finally, remember that no harness lasts forever. Regularly inspect your harness for signs of wear, especially around the tie-in points and buckles. If you notice fraying, fading, or any damage, it’s time to replace it.