How to Choose the Perfect Climbing Shoes: A Complete Buying Guide

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Climbing shoes are one of the most important pieces of gear in your climbing kit. The right pair can enhance your performance, provide better grip, and improve your comfort on the wall. However, choosing the perfect pair can be challenging due to the wide variety of brands, models, and features. This guide will walk you through the key factors to consider when buying climbing shoes, along with recommendations for specific shoes across different styles and experience levels.

1. Types of Climbing Shoes

There are three main types of climbing shoes, each designed for different types of climbing and foot shapes:

  • Neutral: Comfortable and relaxed fit with a flat profile. Ideal for beginners or long climbing sessions where comfort is key.
  • Moderate: Slightly downturned shape that offers more precision for technical climbing. Good for intermediate climbers and multi-pitch routes.
  • Aggressive: Highly downturned, designed for steep, overhanging climbs and advanced bouldering. Focuses power to the toes for precise footwork.

2. Shoe Fit and Sizing

Fit is crucial for climbing shoes. They should be snug, but not painful, and allow you to feel secure and in control on the wall.

  • Toe Fit: Your toes should be slightly curled but not painfully crammed. For aggressive shoes, expect a more curled toe position to increase power on small holds.
  • Heel Fit: The heel should fit snugly without any dead space, preventing slippage during heel hooks.
  • Width: Consider the width of your foot. Some brands make shoes that fit wider feet (like La Sportiva or Scarpa), while others cater to narrow feet (like Tenaya or Five Ten).

Tip: Climbing shoes often stretch, especially leather ones. Synthetic materials stretch less, so size accordingly.

3. Closure Systems

  • Laces: Allow for a highly adjustable fit, making them ideal for all-day comfort and precision fitting.
  • Velcro Straps: Easy to take on and off, perfect for gym sessions and bouldering. However, they offer less fine-tuned fit compared to laces.
  • Slip-On (Elastic): Provide a minimalist fit, great for training and slab climbing, but less secure for aggressive climbing styles.

4. Rubber Type and Thickness

The type of rubber affects the shoe’s grip and durability:

  • Soft Rubber: Provides excellent grip, great for smearing, but may wear out faster (commonly found in shoes for bouldering or sport climbing).
  • Stiff Rubber: Offers better support and durability, ideal for edging and technical climbs.

Thickness ranges from 3-5mm:

  • Thinner Soles (3mm): More sensitive, allowing for precise foot placement, but wear out faster.
  • Thicker Soles (5mm): More durable, providing support for beginners or for long climbs.

5. Climbing Style and Environment

  • Bouldering: Choose aggressive shoes with a downturned shape for maximum power on steep, overhanging routes. Look for shoes with sticky rubber and a snug fit for precise toe and heel hooking.
  • Sport Climbing: Moderate to aggressive shoes work well, depending on the terrain. A balance of comfort and precision is ideal for long routes.
  • Trad Climbing: Comfort is key for multi-pitch or crack climbing. Opt for neutral or moderate shoes with a stiff sole to support your feet over long periods.
  • Indoor Climbing: Velcro shoes or slippers are convenient for gym sessions where you frequently take your shoes on and off. Comfort and stickiness are the main focus.

6. Recommended Climbing Shoes

Best for Beginners

  1. La Sportiva Tarantulace
    • Type: Neutral
    • Closure: Laces
    • Best For: All-day comfort and versatility
    • Description: A durable, comfortable shoe for beginners. It offers a flat profile for comfort on long routes and enough performance to progress as you improve.
  2. Scarpa Origin
    • Type: Neutral
    • Closure: Velcro
    • Best For: Gym climbing, beginner trad routes
    • Description: Soft and forgiving, the Scarpa Origin is perfect for beginners who want comfort without sacrificing performance.

Best for Intermediate Climbers

  1. Evolv Shaman
    • Type: Moderate
    • Closure: Velcro
    • Best For: Sport climbing, bouldering
    • Description: Designed by Chris Sharma, this shoe has a downturned shape for powerful moves and a snug fit, great for climbers progressing into harder grades.
  2. Five Ten Anasazi VCS
    • Type: Moderate
    • Closure: Velcro
    • Best For: All-around climbing, sport climbing
    • Description: Known for its precision and edging ability, this shoe is a go-to for intermediate climbers. Its Stealth rubber offers excellent grip, and it works well on various types of terrain.

Best for Advanced Climbers

  1. La Sportiva Solution
    • Type: Aggressive
    • Closure: Velcro
    • Best For: Bouldering, steep sport climbs
    • Description: A top choice for advanced climbers, the Solution offers a highly downturned toe for precision on tiny holds. Its aggressive profile makes it ideal for overhangs and steep bouldering.
  2. Scarpa Drago
    • Type: Aggressive
    • Closure: Velcro
    • Best For: Bouldering, competition climbing
    • Description: A high-performance shoe with super soft rubber for maximum sensitivity. It’s perfect for climbers tackling difficult, dynamic moves on steep terrain.

Best for Trad Climbers

  1. La Sportiva TC Pro
    • Type: Neutral/Moderate
    • Closure: Laces
    • Best For: Trad climbing, crack climbing, multi-pitch
    • Description: Made famous by Alex Honnold in Free Solo, the TC Pro is perfect for trad climbers who need support and comfort over long routes. The high-top design protects your ankles in cracks.
  2. Scarpa Maestro Mid
    • Type: Neutral
    • Closure: Laces
    • Best For: Multi-pitch, trad
    • Description: With a stiff sole and comfortable design, the Maestro Mid is perfect for trad climbing. The mid-ankle protection and durable build make it a favorite for long days on the wall.

7. Final Tips for Choosing Climbing Shoes

  • Try Before You Buy: Always try shoes on before purchasing. Climbing shoes fit differently from regular shoes, so sizing may vary across brands and models.
  • Break-In Period: Some shoes, especially leather ones, may require a break-in period. Expect a snug fit initially that will mold to your feet over time.
  • Buy for Your Level: Don’t buy the most aggressive shoe if you’re just starting out. Beginners should prioritize comfort and technique before moving to more specialized shoes.

By considering your climbing style, foot shape, and experience level, you can find the perfect climbing shoes to help you progress and enjoy your time on the wall.

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