1. La Sportiva Solution – Best for Aggressive Climbers
Pros: Excellent heel hooking, superior edging, precise toe box
Cons: Expensive, takes time to break in
Best For: Steep sport climbs, bouldering
The La Sportiva Solution is a favorite among climbers pushing their limits. Designed for overhung routes and technical footwork, its aggressive downturn and Vibram XS Grip2 rubber offer excellent sensitivity and precision. The Solution’s heel cup is one of the best on the market, making it ideal for heel hooks on steep terrain.
2. Scarpa Drago – Best for Sensitivity and Smearing
Pros: Ultra-soft, excellent for smearing, lightweight
Cons: Wears out quickly, not great for edging
Best For: Slab climbing, overhangs, smearing
The Scarpa Drago is a soft and sensitive climbing shoe that excels on steep and slabby routes. With its minimal midsole and sticky rubber, it allows for maximum contact with the rock, giving you an unmatched feel on delicate holds. If you prefer a snug fit and lots of flexibility, the Drago is an excellent choice.
3. Tenaya Mastia – Best for Comfort and Performance
Pros: Comfortable for an aggressive shoe, great edging power, precise toe box
Cons: Expensive, moderate downturn may not be aggressive enough for extreme overhangs
Best For: All-around sport climbing, multi-pitch routes
The Tenaya Mastia strikes a balance between comfort and high performance. It features a semi-aggressive downturn and a well-padded tongue, making it more comfortable than most high-performance shoes. Ideal for sport climbers looking for a shoe that can handle technical footwork without compromising on comfort.
4. Evolv Shaman – Best for Wide Feet
Pros: Comfortable fit for wide feet, excellent toe box support, great edging
Cons: Velcro straps may wear out over time, not the softest shoe
Best For: Sport climbers with wider feet, edging-intensive routes
If you have wide feet and struggle to find a high-performance shoe that fits, the Evolv Shaman is a great option. Designed by Chris Sharma, this shoe features a downturned profile and a roomy toe box, offering both power and comfort for climbers tackling steep sport routes.
5. Black Diamond Zone – Best Budget Performance Shoe
Pros: Affordable, breathable knit upper, good for edging and smearing
Cons: Less aggressive than top-tier performance shoes, moderate durability
Best For: Beginner to intermediate sport climbers, gym climbing
The Black Diamond Zone is a great entry-level performance shoe that balances price and quality. With a semi-aggressive downturn and medium-stiff sole, it provides decent edging power while remaining comfortable for longer climbing sessions.
6. La Sportiva Katana Lace – Best All-Around Climbing Shoe
Pros: Versatile, great for edging and crack climbing, durable
Cons: Slightly stiffer than specialized sport climbing shoes
Best For: Multi-discipline climbers, long sport routes
For those who want a do-it-all shoe, the La Sportiva Katana Lace is hard to beat. With a neutral-to-moderate downturn and a precise fit, this shoe excels on a variety of terrain. It’s stiff enough for technical edging yet flexible enough for smearing, making it a go-to for sport climbers who dabble in other styles.
Get La Sportiva Katana Lace here
How to Choose the Right Sport Climbing Shoes
When picking a sport climbing shoe, consider the following factors:
1. Fit
A snug fit is crucial, but avoid excessive pain. Shoes should be tight enough for precision yet comfortable enough for longer sessions.
2. Rubber Type
Softer rubber (like Vibram XS Grip2) provides better sensitivity and friction, while firmer rubber (like Vibram XS Edge) offers better durability and support.
3. Downturn
- Aggressive: Best for overhung climbs and bouldering.
- Moderate: Good for all-around climbing.
- Neutral: Comfortable for multi-pitch and crack climbing.
4. Closure System
- Velcro: Convenient and quick to put on/take off.
- Laces: More adjustable for a precise fit.
- Slippers: Comfortable and sensitive, but less secure for aggressive climbing.
Final Thoughts
The best sport climbing shoe depends on your personal preference, climbing style, and foot shape. Whether you need an ultra-aggressive shoe for overhung routes or a comfortable all-around performer, there’s a shoe on this list for you. Be sure to try on different models and sizes to find the best fit.
Which climbing shoes do you swear by? Let us know in the comments!
This was so helpful, not many other websites make it so clear!!!
Absolutely agree. Amazing!