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Overhangs are one of the most physically demanding and mentally challenging types of terrain in climbing. Tackling them requires a combination of strength, technique, and efficient body positioning. Whether you’re climbing indoors on a steep wall or outdoors on an overhanging boulder, mastering overhangs can take your climbing to the next level. Here’s how you can conquer them with the right techniques.
1. Build Upper Body Strength
Overhangs place a lot of demand on your upper body, especially your arms, shoulders, and back. While leg strength is important for all climbing, overhangs require you to engage your upper body more aggressively.
- Pull-Ups and Lock-Offs: Regular pull-ups help build the strength needed for overhangs. Lock-offs (pausing with your chin over the bar) increase endurance for holding positions on steep terrain.
- Core Strength: Engage your core to keep your body close to the wall, which reduces the load on your arms. Exercises like planks, leg raises, and hanging knee tucks improve your core’s ability to hold you in a tight position.
- Lat and Shoulder Engagement: Exercises that target the lats and shoulders, like lat pull-downs, shoulder presses, and resistance band workouts, help you pull yourself up and maintain body tension on overhangs.
Tip: Incorporate climbing-specific strength training into your routine to enhance your performance on steep terrain.
2. Perfect Your Footwork
Good footwork is just as essential on overhangs as it is on vertical climbs. However, in steep terrain, you need to rely on your feet to maintain body tension and reduce the strain on your arms.
- Toe Hooks: A toe hook involves hooking your toes around holds or edges to maintain stability. This technique is helpful when your feet are over your head or when you need extra tension on steep terrain.
- Heel Hooks: Similar to toe hooks, heel hooks allow you to transfer weight from your arms to your legs. Place your heel on a hold above or at the same height as your hips, and engage your hamstrings to pull your body upwards.
- Smearing: On certain overhanging walls, you may need to smear against the surface. Press your foot flat against the wall for friction, even if there are no visible footholds.
Tip: Practice these foot techniques on easier routes to get comfortable before applying them to more difficult overhangs.
3. Use Efficient Body Positioning
Body positioning is crucial for mastering overhangs. On steep terrain, the force of gravity pulls your hips away from the wall, so proper positioning helps you stay close to the wall and conserve energy.
- Keep Your Hips Close: The closer your hips are to the wall, the less strain there is on your arms. Engage your core to keep your body tight and maintain balance.
- Drop Knees: This technique involves turning one knee inward toward the wall, which allows you to twist your body into a more stable position. Drop knees help reduce the load on your arms and give you better reach.
- Flagging: Flagging involves extending one leg out to balance your body when you’re off-center. It helps you maintain control and stability while making difficult moves on an overhang.
Tip: Use body tension to your advantage by practicing flagging and drop knees on slightly overhung routes before progressing to steeper ones.
4. Climb with Momentum
On overhangs, using static, slow movements can drain your energy quickly. Instead, climb dynamically and use momentum to your advantage.
- Dynamic Movement: For long reaches, push off with your feet and use momentum to help you move upward. This allows you to make bigger moves without relying solely on arm strength.
- Rest Points: Look for spots where you can rest by hanging from straight arms or using a good foothold. Resting on overhangs helps you recover and conserve energy.
- Relax Your Grip: Over-gripping is common on steep routes and can lead to muscle fatigue. Focus on maintaining a relaxed grip when possible to save energy for difficult sections.
Tip: Practice dynamic moves in the gym, focusing on fluid transitions from one hold to the next without hesitating.
5. Master Knee Bars and Stemming
Knee bars and stemming are advanced techniques that can give you a break during tough overhangs.
- Knee Bar: A knee bar is when you wedge your knee or thigh between two holds to lock yourself into position. This allows you to rest or adjust your body while using minimal energy.
- Stemming: Stemming involves pressing your feet against two opposing surfaces, like when you’re inside a dihedral or between two close walls. It provides stability and reduces the strain on your arms.
Tip: Practice these techniques in controlled environments, such as in climbing gyms, to get comfortable using them when needed.
6. Visualize and Break Down the Route
Overhanging routes often require precise planning and efficient execution. Before starting, visualize the entire route and identify key sections where specific techniques will be necessary.
- Plan Your Sequence: Identify holds that will require a dynamic move, places to rest, and spots for tricky footwork like toe or heel hooks.
- Break It Down: Focus on individual sections rather than the whole route. This prevents feeling overwhelmed by the steepness and complexity of the terrain.
- Beta from Others: If you’re unsure how to tackle a difficult section, ask for advice from other climbers or watch them tackle the route to learn new techniques.
Tip: Memorize key hand and foot positions before attempting a challenging overhang. This helps you move more efficiently and confidently.
7. Practice, Practice, Practice
Improving on overhangs takes consistent practice. The more time you spend on steep terrain, the more comfortable and efficient you’ll become.
- Climb Steep Routes Regularly: Incorporate overhung routes into your regular climbing sessions. Start with slightly overhung routes and gradually progress to steeper terrain.
- Climbing Drills: Practice drills like lock-offs, dynamic movement, and body tension exercises on overhanging walls to build strength and technique.
- Bouldering: Bouldering is a great way to improve your overhang skills because it often involves steep, powerful moves. Focus on boulder problems that emphasize overhanging features.
Tip: Set specific goals for your overhang practice, such as completing a certain number of steep climbs or mastering a particular move like a heel hook or knee bar.
Conclusion
Mastering overhangs requires a blend of strength, technique, and mental preparation. By focusing on building upper body and core strength, refining your footwork, and using efficient body positioning, you can tackle overhanging routes with confidence. Remember, dynamic movement, thoughtful route planning, and consistent practice will help you progress on steep terrain and take your climbing to the next level.